10.15.2011

stop-you-in-your-tracks good


Did you catch what I said earlier? About the chicken class?

Yeah, I'm that person. Every time I want to tackle a new project, be it knitting or planning a garden or photography, I find it impossible to just jump in headfirst. Before I can do, I have to learn. I do extensive Internet research, I check books out of the library, I seek out tutorials, and I talk to anyone I can find who knows more than me about whatever topic it is I'm currently obsessing over.

Obviously, then, when I decided I wanted, no, needed, hens, I immediately signed myself up for chicken school.

Okay, that might be exaggerating a little bit. It was not so much a "school" as a "three-hour introductory class on the basics of keeping chickens." But still, it was me once again embracing the role of student before embarking on a new adventure. And it was a good starting point for a girl like me, one with no close friends or neighbors keeping chickens from whom to learn the ropes, who had no idea that hawks and racoons would suddenly be problematic creatures, who naively assumed chicken wire would be the best material for constructing a chicken fence (apparently its uses run parallel to duct tape - good for everything but), and who never would have guessed that a dog crate is handy to have around for dealing with broody hens.

I'm happy to report, I'm finding chicken husbandry utterly fascinating.

It's not just the thrill of collecting freshly-laid eggs that I'm most looking forward to. (Although it's a big one, being as it is the leading cause of my campaign to install hens in our yard.) The more I learn, the more excited I get to witness the differences between various breeds (we're hoping to have two, maybe three varieties), and to laugh at all the humorous antics hens are (apparently) known to perform, and most certainly to share in my children's experience of caring for and bonding with the creatures whose "product" they are already so in love with.

Of all we do to be part of the self-produced local food movement, I anticipate that having chickens will be a lot more life-changing and fulfilling than, say, our small garden plot has proven to be. (Not to knock gardens! I love ours! It's just that, most of the time, the interaction and entertainment factors are quite low.)

So anyway, there I was at the chicken class, listening to discussions around different types of feeders and how much kitchen scraps you can feed your hens and what size and shape your roosts should be to allow the ladies to use them to warm their feet in the winter, when the conversation turned to gluten-free food.

It should have been unsurprising. Gluten-free is on the tips of so many tongues these days that it has a habit of sneaking into even the most unsuspecting conversations. And really, given that the class was taking a break to visit the store downstairs, where, among the naturally-dyed yarns and locally-made soaps, gluten-free baked goods were prominently on display, it was inevitable.

The most surprising thing, actually, was the tone of the chatter. It was so . . . negative.

I was waiting in line at the cash register when I heard the cashier caution the man in front of me about the whoopie pie he was trying to buy.

Cashier: "You know that's gluten-free, right?"

Man: "Oh, no, well, I'll get it anyway."

"Are you sure? I feel I should warn you: it's an acquired taste," the cashier said, delicately.

Things went downhill from there. The cashier recounted other customers who hadn't liked the whoopie pies. A woman behind me had had them once, when she was trying to eat gluten-free. They were awful, she said.

At that point, the gluten-free lifestyle more generally became the topic around which the talk swirled. How hard it was to find things to eat. How expensive all the gluten-free (packaged) foods at the grocery store are, and how bad they taste. The whoopie-pie-hating woman exclaimed that she was so happy when she gave up eating gluten-free, that living that way was unbearable. Everyone else agreed, in a chorus of talking over each other with their gluten-free horror stories.

This was where I jumped in.

I practically had to shout to be heard above all the eager-to-complain voices, but finally I had the floor. I spoke emphatically, with an urgency that was new to me; never before had I so strongly felt the need to defend the gluten-free lifestyle. And while I may have gone on too long, and been too fervent in stating my case, I think I got my point across.

Food that comes with a warning, that needs to be apologized for, is not good food. Gluten-free should be no exception; no one should have to settle for food that, in its most polite description, is an "acquired taste." Living gluten-free should be far from unbearable.

I talked about my work at the restaurant, about the rave reviews we get for our gluten-free focaccia and pasta and all the desserts I make. I talked about this space, and all the other amazing gluten-free bloggers and bakers and chefs and cookbook authors out there proving daily that gluten-free food is not only not a shadow of its gluten-full cousin, but in some cases actually, defiantly, better.


But you know what? I didn't have any concrete evidence with which to prove my point. I didn't have anything to feed to my classmates. All I had was my convictions and some business cards and the whoopie pie the guy at the cash register gave me for free, because he wanted my opinion of it.

It was not a good whoopie pie. It was a very bad whoopie pie, in fact. I would not want to eat enough of those whoopie pies to acquire a taste for them. And yet, as the cashier explained to me, they wanted to have gluten-free treats for sale, and support local businesses. There was only one local gluten-free bakery, so it was these whoopie pies (and chocolate chip cookies and brownies) or nothing.

While I understand the desire to accept fresh-baked gluten-free items with gratitude and bite our collective tongues against any criticism we may have (Hey! The fact that there even are local gluten-free bakeries is a big deal, and we should support anyone out there making an effort to feed us well!), it still doesn't feel very good to be presented with food that is unpalatable. Not now, not when the culture has changed and we've realized that gluten-free can be stop-you-in-your-tracks good.

I don't want my food to make me sick. And I want to eat tremendously, phenomenally well. These two desires should not be mutually exclusive.

So what to do? Well, we've got to keep making amazing food, for one thing. We've got to keep sharing our knowledge and discoveries, spreading the word on how to make gluten-free taste great. When we find a product or company worth talking about, we've got to do our best to promote it. And we've got to be patient. Because as explosively popular as gluten-free has become, it is still a very, very different way for most people to approach baking and cooking. And, like all foods, there's always going to be a range of gluten-free food out there, from the barely passable to the five-star. Accepting that, while still working to tip the scale further and further away from the "passable" end of things, is the job of many food movements right now. We're in good company.

And if we're lucky enough to do all that with a delicious, pillowy-soft, seasonally-scented whoopie pie in hand, well, all the better.


Multigrain Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Whoopie Pies
yields 2 dozen individual cookies, and 1 dozen whoopie pies

These whoopie pies are not only far better than any of the ones I remember eating as a child, they also have the added benefit of being a lot healthier. Packed with whole grains and pumpkin, the fluffy domed little cakes sandwich a filling that eschews the traditional questionable ingredients (shortening and marshmallow fluff) for cream cheese and pure maple syrup. As an added bonus, they are gum-free. Whoopie!

65 grams light buckwheat flour
55 grams almond flour
55 grams Tara's all-purpose gluten-free flour (or your favorite all-purpose blend)
50 grams certified gluten-free oat flour
25 grams potato starch
20 grams teff flour
8 grams/2 tsp baking powder
4 grams/1½ tsp roasted Saigon cinnamon (regular cinnamon is fine, too)
3 grams/1 tsp psyllium husk powder
3 grams/½ tsp fine sea salt
pinch ground cloves
dash of freshly ground black pepper (I did about 10 turns on my pepper mill)
50 grams sour cream
4 grams/1 tsp baking soda
175 grams light brown sugar
114 grams/1 stick unsalted butter, room temperature
212 grams pumpkin purée
52 grams/1 large egg
1 tsp vanilla
175 grams/1 cup bittersweet chocolate chips
1 recipe Maple Cinnamon Cream Cheese Frosting (recipe follows)

Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Line two sheet trays with parchment or silicone baking mats. Set aside.

In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together the buckwheat flour, almond flour, all-purpose flour, oat flour, potato starch, teff flour, baking powder, cinnamon, psyllium husk powder, salt, cloves, and black pepper. Set aside.

In a small bowl, stir together the sour cream and baking soda. Set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the brown sugar and butter. Add the pumpkin, and mix until smooth. Beat in the egg and vanilla, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary.

With the machine on low speed, add the flour mixture to the pumpkin mixture in three additions, alternating with the sour cream. Mix in the chocolate chips.

Using a small ice cream scoop with a spring release mechanism (I use this one; you want something that scoops 3-4 tablespoons of dough), scoop the dough onto the prepared sheet trays, about 2 inches apart. Bake the cookies for 12-15 minutes, or until the edges have just begun to brown, the tops are cracked and dry, and a tester inserted near the center comes out clean. Cool completely.

To assemble the whoopie pies, fill a piping bag fitted with a large star tip (or just use a large plastic freezer bag and snip off one corner) with the cream cheese frosting, and pipe a spiral of frosting on the flat sides of half of the cookies. Sandwich with the remaining cookies. Wrap each whoopie pie in plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to three days. Whoopie pies can be served cold or at room temperature.

Maple Cinnamon Cream Cheese Frosting
Yields enough to fill 1 dozen whoopie pies

454 grams/16 oz cream cheese, room temperature
226 grams/8 oz confectioner's sugar, sifted
140 grams/10 Tbsp unsalted butter, room temperature
80 grams/4 Tbsp pure maple syrup
30 grams/2 Tbsp heavy cream
¾ tsp roasted Saigon cinnamon (regular cinnamon is fine, too)

Combine all in a mixing bowl and beat with an electric mixer to thoroughly blend. (You could also use a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or a whisk and elbow grease!) Refrigerate until needed.

22 comments:

  1. I whole heartily agree Tara. With everything you say. From your excitement about keeping chickens (something we too, hope to do one day), to your stance on packaged gluten-free foods that are barely palatable and the reason most people get their justification for calling gluten-free food 'an acquired taste'. I totally stand behind you in saying that gluten-free food does not have to be an inferior distant cousin of wheat-laden food, only eaten because there is no other choice. There is, choice. And I applaud each and every person working hard to change this view.
    P.s god your whoopie pies look and sound amazing. Xx

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  2. Amen, my friend. GF does not mean taste-free.

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  3. Hello Tara! I agree & understand everything you say! gluten free living isn't easy, i did it for about 5 months but can eat gluten again from time to time, so I don't blog gf only anymore.
    I too, love to use wholegrain gf flours because they have so much taste. I love millet, coconut & teff a lot! Your filled whoopy pies look like the real thing! Truly delightful! yum!

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  4. Wholehearted agreement from me! My GF spritz cookies are so good I don't tell people that they are gluten free and they ASK me for the recipe!! (I love it when I give it to them!) Since eating GF for the last 3 years, my husband and I have made it our mission to eat only "GOOD" tasting food, and sites like this one are key to us doing just that! Keep on keeping on, sista'!!

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  5. Thank you, everyone! I'm glad there are so many of us working to prove that eating gluten-free can be wonderful!

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  6. First I have to say YAY for chickens!! There are so many here in Portland OR we have 4 that are 8 and 10 weeks old. You can see them on my blog but it's about time for an update they are out in the coop now!
    I can't wait to try your recipe they look delicious. I'm glad you raised your voice for the gf it's true there are some bad baked goods out there but at least there are more and more options.

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  7. These look amazing! Question: why do you add the psyllium husk powder? Is this to add fiber or bulk?

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  8. Tate - Thank you! The psyllium actually acts as a binder, to mimic the properties of gluten. An equal amount of xanthan gum would work as well, as long as you don't have any aversions to it. (Many on a gluten-free diet are finding that too much xanthan gum causes digestive issues.) However, since psyllium husk powder is also the main ingredient in Metamucil, it does add a bit of healthy fiber to the recipe!

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  9. Pétra - Yes, yay for chickens! Yours are beautiful! :)

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  10. Tara Thank you! I'm going to make these for book club this week I can't wait to try them.

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  11. Pétra - Wonderful! Be sure to report back how they go over. :)

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  12. Amen, amen, amen! Love that your recipe does not use any gums. I've been experimenting with ground chia and flax. Can't wait to try this recipe. Thanks so much!

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  13. amen, sister. good for you for standing up for what you do... make delicious and beautiful food. i've found myself in situations like this as well. the voice gets the tiniest bit higher-pitched with the need to right the wrong... oh well. at least we have passion and good food, right? thanks for sharing.

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  14. I was so excited to find your post about whoopie pies (whole grain and pumpkin--yay!) and then utterly delighted to hear about the chicken class. We have chickens and I have to recommend Sand Hill Preservation for a source--they have an amazing assortment and are dedicated to preserving heritage breeds. Their customer service is excellent as well! Thank you for this post!

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  15. Do you know if egg substitute would work? Every time I try a new recipe, the egg substitute makes it awful. :(

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  16. Woohooo! I'm makin' woopie pies tonight!

    Great Post. Fantastically inspiring. :)

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  17. MM-MM this recipe sounds so good!. I am finding as I adapt my older recipes to gluten free formats that the GF flour blends invariably are tastier and have more character that basic wheat flour. GF cooking is truly an adventure in taste discovery. So not only do I avoid the gluten that aggravates my arthritis, but I discover new & exciting tastes & textures

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  18. Lauren - Thank you! I think a chia/flax slurry would work great in this recipe if you don't have psyllium husk powder laying around.

    gretchen - Glad you can identify. You're right, it's all about passion and good food. :)

    Calico Hen - Thank you so much for recommending a source for heritage breed hens! After figuring out the nitty-gritty of our coop design and placement, sourcing our ladies is next on my list. I will be sure to check out Sand Hill Preservation.

    Anon #1 - I'm so sorry, I have no idea if egg replacer would work; I have no experience using it. However, chia/flax slurries, in addition to being great binder substitutes for xanthan/guar gum, are also great as egg replacers. Maybe try that?

    Anon #2 - Thank you! I hope you enjoyed the whoopie pies!

    Paulette - Isn't it wonderful to do something positive for your health, and then find that it brings additional exiting benefits to your life?

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  19. Just curious...did you take any of these whoopie pies back to the chicken class or to the store owner?....I must admit I've been waiting with a bit of heart-fluttering anticipation :o}

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  20. Heather - Unfortunately, I didn't bring any of my whoopie pies back. The store is quite far from where I live, so without the excuse of a chicken class going on upstairs, I don't find myself in that neck of the woods very often.

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  21. Thank you so much for this recipe! I made them today for some gifts and they were so yummy. I will definitely be making them again.

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  22. Unknown - So glad you liked them! Happy holidays to you!

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