3.02.2011

changing the way we think

We're having some weird times, food-wise.


It's especially, ironically weird considering the existence of the restaurant. One would assume that the owners of a bustling Italian bistro would eat well, all the time. At work, there would be a procession of enticing dishes to choose from. At home, with culinary inspiration continuously bubbling over, there would be lots of creating, playing with new flavors and reimagining family favorites. On the road, all the hidden gems would be sniffed out, making even travel a rewarding adventure.

One would be wrong.


 In my case, at least, if I'm at work I've barely got time to finish everything on my list, and that's without all the unanticipated interruptions that are sure to slow me down. There are deliveries to receive, phone calls to answer, repairmen to talk to, and I scour the kitchen for a good 15 minutes looking for the juicer before I realize it's out at the bar. Where I find a leaking sink and flooded floor, that needs to be attended to now. At some point, I manage to complete my to-do list, but eating never crosses my mind. In the car on the drive home I realize I'm ravenous.

Once home, the dog needs attention, Kalen is as hungry as I am but without any of the ability to hold off just a little longer, and Wylie is whimpering and clingy because it's naptime and he can't hold it together long enough for me to get a real lunch on the table. So I let the dog out, hoping the neighbors won't hold it against me if she starts barking to be let in before I cycle back to her in my attention-giving, sit Kalen at the table with some crackers or string cheese, and take Wylie up to bed. When he's asleep, I look around for food for Kalen, realizing how limited our options are since I rarely make it to the grocery store anymore. I can usually throw together a sandwich for him, but sometimes it's leftover brown rice with cheddar cheese melted over it, and a clementine. I need food for myself, but by now the dog is barking insistently and I really can't ignore her anymore. And the phone rings and it's Josh reminding me of other phone calls I need to make, which I'd better do now before I forget, and Kalen needs his water refilled (as does the dog) and I just realized there's laundry that's been waiting for days to be put in the dryer, and now it's going to need another rinse or it will turn out musty. So I think to myself, maybe I can have a piece of toast or a handful of cashews and make it another hour?

And travel? Who has time to seek out good food when you're driving two hours out of your way to buy the only 3 1/2" tartlette pans in the state, because the ones you ordered were the wrong size and you need them today? Or when you're en route to and from a doctor's appointment with no time for off-the-highway exploration because you're trying to avoid a midnight arrival home with two young kids? But everyone still needs to eat, and the kids are clamoring for a "restaurant" (guess they didn't like the travel plaza earlier), so you get off the highway and take them to the first place you find: Ruby Tuesday. Gourmet it is not. At least everyone eats.

Last week I roasted a chicken. It was the first time I had turned on the oven in ages, and it felt significant. It meant that I had finally had the time and forethought to go grocery shopping for more than just the bare minimum of eggs and milk and peanut butter and toilet paper, and that I was then at home long enough to get the oven preheated and the bird roasted for almost 1 1/2 hours, without dinner being late. A huge accomplishment these days.

I still have time on my mind. I'm more and more conscious of it's pace, and what I'm doing to fully utilize it (or not) each day. I'm also thinking about how important it is to feel slow sometimes. I'm especially aware of it when it comes to transitions. The best example I can give is sleep: when I am awakened abruptly and forced quickly out of bed, I am immediately out of sorts. I need to gently ease myself through that blurry, thick space of mid-wakefulness, to willingly let go of one way of being and accept another. My kids exhibit this need too, after naptime. Getting back into the activity of the day can be a difficult, grumpy exercise if naps are not immediately followed with snuggles, talk, and quiet play, all in bed. Lately, with life being so hectic, I have barely had the time and patience for this, and have then had to endure the unpleasant results. It's hard on everyone around, and creates cantankerous energy that is hard to banish.

Our family is going through several transitions right now, bigger and more complex events than just sleep→awake. I can't necessarily control the speed that these transitions take, the time frame in which they must happen. But I can choose to add some slowness to our days, in order to ease us through this tumultuous time. A thrown-together dinner can still be enjoyed by candlelight. I can stop packing up the kitchen for 10 minutes to help Kalen teach Wylie to play Dots. When the kitchen is finally all boxed up and stacked in the living room, we can leave the house for two hours to spend the evening with wonderful friends who feed us and laugh with us and love our children. And certainly, I can find the patience every day to put aside my urgent tasks and quiet my clattering mind and snuggle Wylie each afternoon for as long as it takes him to step, bright-eyed, back into the hustle of our life.


I'm not trying to slow down time. I'm trying to be ok with letting time continue to rush past me, without having to be right in the middle of it, every moment of the day. I'm trying to accept that my life is hectic and a bit scattered right now, without letting it consume and overwhelm me. And, inspired by my friend Erin's Year of Choice, when I find myself in a frustrating, discouraging place, I am trying to acknowledge and embrace my ability to make a conscious choice to put a better spin on the situation.

Take dinner. Having the time to prepare that roast chicken was a fluke. I've been having a hard time even getting ready to think about dinner before 5pm lately. But instead of getting irked and flustered about it, I've realized that, for one thing, it's a result of us having such full and fulfilling lives. This is good. Dinner can suffer occasionally because of this, and none of us will be the worse for it. And secondly, it means we have more opportunities than ever to have pancakes for supper.

Pancakes. I will always love pancakes, and they're the only food I instinctively turn to when I'm in a breakfast-for-dinner sort of mood (or time frame). And yet, on some responsible, parental level they never feel quite right. They're too sweet, too cakey, too screaming to be smothered with more sweetness. This is not what dinner is supposed to be!


Which is why I have been so glad to have an extra reason, a need, to make pancakes this past week. The amazing Shauna recently pitched an exciting idea to a group of us fellow gluten-free bloggers about baking together. Which, honestly, would be wonderful in and of itself if that was all it was. But it's not simply baking together. Shauna has created the Gluten-Free Ratio Rally, to change the way people think about and approach gluten-free baking. (The wonderful logo was designed by the talented Anile Prakash.) Baking by ratio is not an entirely new concept, but it's been spotlighted lately by Michael Ruhlman's book Ratio. It's an enormously helpful way of understanding traditional cooking and baking, but I've noticed some hesitation about applying it to gluten-free baking. Would it even work with all our crazy flours? Would a good gluten-free ratio be adaptable to a variety of flours? Would it make gluten-free baking even more daunting to the uninitiated?

Yes, yes, and thankfully, no. It really works. And it's easier than you think. At Shauna's urging, the members of the Gluten-Free Ratio Rally are all baking by ratio, working out the tweaks, for all of you. Each month, we choose a baked good to focus on, and then each of us determines our own personal ideal qualities for that item, and develops the ratio to achieve it. And then we give them all to you, so that you not only have dozens of solid recipes, but the templates from which to build your own personalized recipes! Gluten-free baking can now be simple, straightforward, and intuitive. Honestly, I don't think I ever thought those adjectives would be applied to from-scratch gluten-free baking. This feels big.

We're launching the project with pancakes, which I think is appropriate. Pancakes are every day food, yet they can be the stuff of ritual and celebration across generations. They can be simple or fancy, hearty or sweet, thin or thick. They are incredibly accommodating to a variety of ingredients, and they're a great way to both begin and end a day. They're universal, while being universally variable. And they're just what I needed last week, when dinners were at risk of becoming an afterthought.


Although at the outset I had merely intended to take my much-loved, but not-so-nutritious, standard pancake recipe and throw a few more whole grains into it, in the end I have something swerving much closer to the realm of savory pancakes. They have just a hint of sweetness from the touch of maple syrup, but I wouldn't want to spoon a berry compote over them. They're earthy and nutty with amaranth, buckwheat, and teff flours, which is the perfect backdrop for the richness of the bacon and the high note of the chives that are distributed within. I cuddled them up against some cheesy scrambled eggs for an immensely satisfying weeknight supper. (In case you're wondering, they're still lovely with maple syrup, if you simply must pair your pancakes with a drizzle of sweetness.)

Supper pancakes. Thick and soft, dark and wholesome, this recipe has served us well. Three times in the past week, in fact. They get extra credit in my book for how easily they can make the switch to sweeter, more traditional breakfast pancakes. Just leave out the bacon fat and double the butter, and swap out the bacon and chives for your favorite berry(s) - easy! And if you prefer the flavor of different flours, or need to use what's already in the pantry, the ratio makes it simple to adapt the recipe. Want millet, sorghum, and brown rice flour instead of amaranth, buckwheat, and teff? Just keep the total weight of your flours at 5 'parts' (in this case, 5 ounces for a single batch) and you're good to go. Do you need to eat dairy-free? Use 4 fluid ounces of your family's preferred milk and 2 ounces of your favorite fat, and don't worry that your substitutions will create problems. When you have a solid, working ratio, the possibilities for successful improvisation are endless.

So welcome to the Gluten-Free Ratio Rally. I hope you join us in our baking explorations, and I truly, truly hope that if any of you harbor fears and insecurities about your ability to successfully bake gluten-free, this Rally will banish them. With the right knowledge set, we can all be great gluten-free bakers! Even if all you're baking is pancakes for supper at the end of a crazy day.

Follow these links to read the inaugural Gluten-Free Ratio Rally posts from the rest of the wonderfully-talented bloggers involved in this project, and then go make some pancakes!

Lauren at Celiac Teen made Whole Grain, Egg-Free, Vegan Convertible Pancakes
Karen at Cooking Gluten-Free made Multi Blend Gluten-Free Pancakes
Silvana at Dishtowel Diaries made Sticky Cinnamon Swirl Pancakes with Maple Icing
Irvin at Eat the Love made Quinoa Cornmeal Lemon Honey Pancakes with Rosemary Maple Syrup
Britt at GF in the City made Teff Spice Pancakes
Lisa at Gluten Free Canteen made Potato Pancakes
Shauna at Gluten-Free Girl and the Chef made Whole-Grain Gluten-Free Pancakes
Kate at Gluten-Free Gobsmacked made Hazelnut and Dried Cherry Pancakes
Jenn at Jenn Cuisine made Hazelnut/Coconut Pancakes
Erin at The Sensitive Epicure made Oatmeal Buckwheat Pancakes with Bananas and Pecans
Carol at Simply Gluten-Free made Maple Oat Bacon Pancakes

Also, if you're on Twitter, our official hashtag is #gfreerally, so you can follow and join in on our Gluten-Free Ratio Rally conversation there.


Whole Grain Supper Pancakes
yields seven to eight 4-inch-diameter pancakes

The ratio for these pancakes is:
5 parts flour
4 parts liquid
1 part sugar
1 part egg
2 parts fat

2 oz Tara's gluten-free pastry flour mix
1 oz teff flour
1 1/2 oz light buckwheat flour
1/2 oz amaranth flour
1/2 tsp xanthan gum
1 1/4 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp (scant) fine sea salt
4 fluid oz lowfat buttermilk
1 fluid oz pure maple syrup
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 oz unsalted butter, melted
1 oz bacon drippings (reserved from cooking bacon)
1 oz chopped, cooked applewood-smoked bacon (approximately 3 thick-cut pieces)
1 Tbsp finely chopped chives

Combine the flours, xanthan gum, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a mixing bowl and whisk to thoroughly blend.

Add the buttermilk, maple syrup, egg, melted butter, and bacon drippings and mix until blended.

Stir in the cooked bacon pieces and chopped chives.

Spoon batter by the quarter-cup onto a well-greased skillet or griddle, preheated oven medium-low heat, and spread to a diameter of about 4 inches. Cook until the top begins to look dry and the bottom is crisp and a deep mahogany brown. Flip, and cook until the other side browns. Serve warm with maple syrup, or pair with your favorite eggs.

18 comments:

  1. Bacon makes everything better. Love this whole-grain-filled, savory spin on pancakes!

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  2. something about adding bacon to a pancake sounds wonderful!

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  3. Oh Tara, I feel for you. Being involved in a restaurant in any way means crazy-late dinners and eating on the run. Thank goodness for these pancakes, which look utterly delicious.

    And thank you for your wonderful contributions. I'm so excited!

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  4. Pancakes for supper, I love it!! I am loving the whole-grain theme I'm seeing in a lot of our recipes as well. Great take on the gluten free pancakes!

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  5. Yum! Sounds so delicious, substantial, and satisfying.

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  6. I love pancakes for dinner! Wonderful idea!

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  7. What a great & tasty idea! Let's make some great gf pancakes together!

    Your savoury pancakes look just stunning & truly appetizing too!

    Thanks for the links too! :)

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  8. You and I are so on the same page here - I love bacon and I love pancakes for dinner! Beautiful.

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  9. WOW UM SUPPER PANCAKES!?! YES YES YES!

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  10. I loved your post and recipe. You captured so well the demands of life and work. My kids have always loved pancakes (breakfast) for dinner. I don't read many blogs on a daily basis but yours will definately be one to read as I follow you through the challenges and delights of owning a restaurant.

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  11. I love the way you tell your stories, Tara. I'm honoured to be a part of this with you. Supper pancakes are such a brilliant idea! Bacon, chives and whole grains? I am so there. I hope you get a chance to breathe with everything going on now - pancakes is always a good place to start though! Also, my go-to comfort egg dish is poached eggs on toast, but my oh my, I'm sure they would be dreamy placed atop these!

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  12. Britt - Yes, bacon absolutely makes everything better. :) (There's actually a book by that name!)

    Lisa - It's funny, because I never cook bacon to serve alongside pancakes, but I LOVE putting it IN the pancakes!

    Shauna - Yes, I'm sure you can relate. A person really has to love the restaurant industry to put up with all the lifestyle changes it causes! And I am so, so excited to be a part of this project. Thank you.

    Jenn - I've been loving adding more whole grains to my baking lately. And with these pancakes, it makes me feel like they're still healthy, in spite of the bacon!

    Erin - These are definitely substantial pancakes. I think that's a requirement if you're serving them for supper!

    Iris - Thank you! I really, really love pancakes for dinner, too!

    Sophie - It is a great idea, isn't it? Lots of collaboration, lots of great gf baking, lots of happy bellies. Definitely check out the rest of the participant's posts!

    Carol - Definitely on the same page. Love it. Thank you!

    Kelsey - I love that you responded in all caps. Such enthusiasm! Thank you!

    Karen - Thank you so much. Trying to balance life and work often leaves little time to read blogs, so I'm extremely flattered that you'd include mine on your list!

    Lauren - Thank you, thank you, thank you. I'm excited that we're working together on this! When I was a kid, my mom would make poached eggs on toast whenever she needed a quick & easy dinner. We called it Dropped Eggs on Toast, and I LOVED it. Thanks for reminding me of that. :)

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  13. Tara, your pancakes looks so yummy! Richard isn't a huge fan of pancakes... maybe I can convert him with these. I love pancakes and Ceci loves to help make them, too.
    I miss having you in town and hope your current adventures are going well!

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  14. Sammy - Josh doesn't like pancakes as a general category, either. It's somewhat of a challenge for me to come up with something that he'll eagerly eat. That said, these were a success! Very different from the stereotypical pancake house-style (white, starchy, sweet . . . you know what I mean). Anyway, I was thinking about you today and wondering what you were up to! Hope to see you soon - things are going well and we might be back in the house sometime next week!

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  15. These sounds fantastic. I think it's the inclusion of the bacon. I mean who doesn't love bacon? Okay, maybe vegetarians, but even the vegetarians I know will tell you that they secretly crave bacon. It's the gateway meat after all.

    I can only imagine the insanity of trying to open a restaurant and take care of a family at the same time. The energy that it must take! But it sounds so incredibly fulfilling. One of these days I'll make it out there to eat there, and maybe then we can go back to your place and make pancakes together...

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  16. Irvin - Gateway meat? Absolutely. My mother, who claims to be a pescatarian, eats bacon every time it's offered to her. In fact, she's usually the one who offers to buy & cook it at family gatherings!
    And by the way, I'm going to hold you to that "I'll make it out there" comment . . . and we will absolutely bake together!

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  17. I bought Ratio by Michael Ruhlman about three weeks ago. I have skimmed it but not dug in yet. Thanks for the confidence to do so. And thanks for the recipes too. Great guidelines to go by.

    Cathy

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  18. Cathy - You're welcome! I'm so glad you've got Ratio. It gives you a head start on understanding the basis of the Ratio Rally. And since gf baking by ratio is not that different from regular ratio baking, I think you'll find it to be a great resource.

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